What a beautiful sweater! I love this Morning On The Beach crochet sweater! You only need one cake of color gradient yarn for sizes xs thru xl. Plus sizes need two cakes. The free crochet pattern is below or purchase the ad free pdf at RAVELRY or ETSY.
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The first segment of the pattern is here and you will find 3 short videos to help you along.
1. Video 1 explain’s the different yarns and color placement if using a color gradiant yarn.
2. Video 2 gives instruction on where to place that last dc at the end of the row, while making the yoke and bodice, so that you get a very strait and smooth edge.
3. Video 3 Gives instruction on how to adjust for sizing, when to cut the yarn for good color placement.
NOTES
1. Please see “Size Adjustment Tip” if sizing is a concern. You will find help on how to adjust for different body types
2. This is designed to be an “open front” loose fitting cardigan. If you would like a tighter fit, please go down one size or make adjustments by eliminating stitches to the foundation chain, and
eliminating increases in the underarm area.
3. The yoke of this sweater is written using abbreviations that separate each section of the yoke, within the row.
fs1(front side 1) & fs2 (front side 2)
back (back of the yoke)
shldr 1(shoulder 1) & shldr 2 (shoulder 2)
Here is a short video to give you tips and hints on how to place the colors on your sweater, and what kind of yarn I recommend.
Yarn used: Fingering weight yarn; (2) Super Fine. I used “Cotton Colors” from AC Moore, 1950 yds. There are folks on etsy that sell this yarn. 1 cake for xs-xl; 2 cakes for plus sizes.
Scheepjes (sheh-peez) Whirl – 1000 m (1093 yds) 1 cake for xs-xl; 2 cakes for plus sizes.
https://www.scheepjes.com/whirl yarn
Hobbii twirls or cotton king is another color changing cake that can be used. 1000 m (1093 yds)
1 cake for xs-xl; 2 cakes for plus sizes.
https://hobbii.com/twirls-deluxe
Lion Brand “Summer Nights” is another yarn that will work with this design. It is a variegated yarn only, and does not present with the color gradation the cake yarns do.
(xs, s; approx. 800-880 yds, or 2 balls)
(m, l, xl; approx. 1000- 1200, or 3 balls)
I was able to achieve gauge using Michaels “Woolike Yarn by Loops and Threads,” but I had to go up one hook size.
Gauge: 4”h x 4”w = 7 dc rows x 16 dc st’s (This is designed to be a loose weave, so that the fabric is airy. This sweater has a bit of stretch width wise)
Hook: F-5 3.75mm
Special Stitches
Shell = 7dc in st indicated
V = dc, ch2, dc in st indicated
Cross Stitch = Skip st, dc in nxt st, cross back passing the hook in front of prev. st, executing a dc in st that was skipped.
Stitch Guide
fs1& fs2 = front side 1 and front side 2 (see no. 3 in Notes)
shldr 1& shldr 2 = shoulder 1 and shoulder 2 (see no. 3 in Notes)
join w/ = join with
slp st = Slip Stitch
ch = Chain
sc = Single Crochet
dc = Double Crochet
tr = Treble Crochet
increase = 2 st’s in one stitch
sp. = Space
nxt = Next
prev. = previous
st./st’s = stitch or stitches
beg. = beginning
* * = Complete sequence between the stars, the number of times stated;
x = Times; example Repeat 2 x or 2 times; 3 x or 3 times and so on;
in = example “in nxt st” means you will be inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch to complete stitch or sequence of stitches stated
Size Key
(xs, s, m, l, xl) (1x, 2x, 3x, 4x, 5x)
Bust (32.5”, 34”,36”,38”,40”) (41-43”, 44-48”, 49-52”, 51-55”, 56-60”)
Size Adjustment Tips
1. If you have shallow shoulders eliminate 4-6 chains from the base chain according to your size, and proceed to eliminate 2-3 stitches at each shoulder section. Do the exact opposite if you have full shoulders. Remember to add the extra stitches to the end stitch count.
2. If you have a full bust, add 4 stitches to the base chain, adding 2 stitches to the stitch count at fs1 and fs2. Do the exact opposite if you have a smaller bust line. Remember to add the extra stitches to the end stitch count.
3. If you have a full back add 2-4 stitches to the base chain. Add those chains to the back section. Remember to add the extra stitches to the end stitch count.
Make Base Chain or Foundation DC
(89, 93, 99, 109, 117)
Row 1:dc in 3rd ch from hook,
fs1: dc in nxt ch (10x, 11x, 12x, l4x, 15x) V in nxt ch;
shldr 1: dc in nxt ch (16x, 17x, 18x, 19x, 21x) V in nxt ch;
back: dc in nxt ch (29x, 29x, 31x, 35x, 37x) V in nxt ch;
shldr 2: dc in nxt ch (16x, 17x, 18x, l9x, 21x) V in nxt ch;
fs 2: dc in nxt ch (11x, 12x, 13x, l5x, 16x) ch 2, turn.
Stitch Count (91, 95, 101,111, 119)
ch 2 does not count as stitch now or throughout the rest of the pattern, unless otherwise specified
Row 2:
fs1: dc in each st across (12x, 13x, 14x, 16x, 17x) V in nxt ch 1 sp.of prev. V;
shldr 1: dc in each st across (18x, 19x, 20x, 21x, 23x) V in nxt ch 1 sp. of prev. V;
back: dc in each st across (31x, 31x, 33x, 37x, 39x) V in nxt ch 1 sp. of prev. V;
shldr 2: dc in each st across (18x, 19x, 20x, 21x, 23x) V in nxt ch 1 sp. of prev. V;
fs 2: dc in each st across (12x, 13x, 14x, 16x, 17x) ch 2, turn.
Stitch Count (99, 105, 109,118, 127)
Size Adjustment Tip
If you have a full bust, add a row or two, in the following sequence.
Row 3:
fs1: dc across in each st of front side 1; V in nxt ch1sp.;
shoulder 1: dc in each st across shoulder 1; V in nxt ch 1 sp;
back: dc in each st across the back; V in nxt ch 1 sp;
shoulder 2: dc in each st across shoulder 2; V in nxt ch 1 sp;
fs 2: dc in each st across front side 2; ch 2, turn.
Stitch Count (107, 113, 117, 126, 135)
Rows: (4-10, 4-11, 4-12, 4-13, 4-14) Repeat Round 3 consecutively
Stitch Count (163, 177, 189, 206, 223)
Bodice
Row: (11, 12, 14, 15, 16)
fs1: dc in each st across; execute 1 dc in ch 1 sp.
{st. cnt. (20, 22, 24, 27, 29) }
1st Underarm chain: chain (19x, 19x, 20x, 21x, 22x) skipping shldr 1 stitches, being careful not to twist chain, execute 1 dc in nxt ch 1 sp.of prev. V
back: dc in each st. across; execute 1 dc in ch 1 sp. of prev. V
{st. cnt. (49, 51, 55, 61, 65)} stitch count is inclusive of dc in ch1 sp at end of shoulder.
2nd Underarm chain: chain (19x, 19x, 20x, 21x, 22x) skipping shldr 2 stitches, being careful not to twist chain, dc in the next ch 1 sp. of prev. V
fs2: dc in each st across; {st. cnt. (20, 22, 24, 27, 29) } stitch count is inclusive of dc in ch 1 sp. ch 2 and turn.
Row: (12, 13, 15, 16, 17)
fs1: dc in each st across
dc in each Underarm chain (19x, 19x, 20x, 21x, 22x)
back: dc in each st across
dc in each Underarm chain (19x, 19x, 20x, 21x, 22x) each st across ch 2 and turn.
Stitch Count (127, 133, 144, 157, 167)
Click this LINK & Please watch this video before proceeding.
Size Adjustment Tip
If you are wanting to make a larger or smaller bodice this is the area to add your increases. You are welcome to increase or decrease as much as you would like. This will change your stitch count and will need to adjust when you are executing the shell portion. There is info to show you how.
The best place to add increases is the under arm area. Place them randomly and evenly per row. You can add the increases in pairs or one on each side.
Rows: (13-23; 14-24; 16-25; 17-26; 18-27) dc in each st around, ch 2 and turn at the end of each row. Note: ch 1 and turn at the end of round (23, 24, 25, 26, 27)
Stitch Count (127, 133, 144, 157, 167)
NOTE: A stitch count a multiple of 8 + 9 is needed for Shell portion of the sweater. Evenly and randomly space the increase’s or decrease’s the number of times stated for each Row.
Row: (24, 25, 26, 27, 28) (30, 32, 34, 36, 38) sc across making sure to evenly space increase’s and decrease’s in the amount needed for the size you are making. Info is below. CH 2 AND TURN
(Row: 24 – xs inc. 2 st’s; Row: 25 – S inc 4 st’s; Row: 27 – M inc. 1 st.
Row: 28 – L inc 4 st’s; Row: 29- XL – inc 2 st’s)Stitch Count (129, 137, 145, 161, 169) (185, 201, 217, 225, 241)
Shell Sequence
(Row numbers will start over)
Row 1: dc in 1st two st’s; *skp 2 ch’s, Shell in nxt; skp 2 ch’s; sc, ch3, skp 1 ch, sc in nxt;* (15x, 16x, 17x, 19x, 20x) skp 2 ch’s, Shell in nxt, skp 2 ch’s, dc in last two st’s; ch 2 and Turn.
Row 2: dc in 1st 2 dc st’s; *ch 3, sc in peak or 4th st of Shell; ch3, V in prev. ch 3 sp.;* (15x, 16x, 17x, 19x, 20x) ch3, sc in peak or 4th st of Shell; ch3, dc in last two dc st’s; ch 2 and Turn.
Row 3: dc in 1st dc st, 3 dc in nxt dc st; *sc in ch3 sp, ch3, sc in nxt ch3 sp; Shell in ch2 sp of prev. V;* (15x, 16x, 17x, 19x, 20x) sc in ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in nxt ch 3 sp; 3 dc in nxt dc, dc in last dc, ch 2 and Turn.
Row 4: dc in 1st two dc st’s, skp nxt two dc; *ch 3, V in ch 3 sp; ch3, sc in peak or 4th st. of prev. Shell* (15x, 16x, 17x, 19x, 20x) (22x, 24x, 26x, 27x, 29x) ch 3, V in ch 3 sp; ch 3, skp 2 dc st’s; dc in last two dc st’s, ch 2 and Turn.
Row 5: dc in 1st two dc st’s, *Shell in ch 2 sp or prev. V; sc in ch 3 sp, ch 3, sc in nxt ch 3 sp;* (15x, 16x, 17x, 19x, 20x) Shell in ch 2 sp or prev. V; dc in last two dc st’s. ch 2 and Turn
Rows 6 thru (18, 18, 20, 20, 20) Repeat Row’s 2 thru 5 consecutively. End off and weave in all ends. You are finished with the bodice!
Sleeves
1. Do not turn throughout the execution of the sleeves.
2. IMPORTANT! Attach yarn with the right side of the sweater facing you.
3. If using color gradient yarn, choose the color that matches the first two rows of the bodice, for the first round.
a. Once the first round is in place you can add colors one round at a time or however the color placement makes you happy.
b. Use the magic knot method and then proceed to crochet while holding the yarn tails, working them into the fabric of the sleeve. Since this is at the underarm it isn’t very noticeable.
c. I didn’t try to mimic the exact color changes when I got to the sc and cross stitch rounds. I would jump colors so that the end colors were similar to the end colors used at the bottom of the shell sequence. I found that jumping colors was an easy way to gradate the yarn to match the color gradation of the sweater. If I jumped 2 colors, I would jump another 2 colors the next time. As long as you stay in order it will be pleasing to the eye.
Working from the right side, attach yarn at the center of the underarm.
Note: I added 1 dc stitch into the V area to eliminate a hole. This sleeve is meant to be full. If you would like a tighter sleeve, please decrease one stitch each round until you get to the edge, then adjust your stitch count by decreasing or increasing. The math will be easy.
Round 1: ch 2, dc in joining st,1 dc in each chain and stitch around the armsceye, join w/slp st to beg. dc; ch 2 (61, 64, 68, 72, 77)
Stitch Count (61, 64, 68, 72, 77)
Round 2 thru (4, 4, 5, 5, 5) dc in joining st and in each st. around; join w/slp st to beg dc, ch 2 at the end of each Row & ch 1 at the end of Row (4, 4, 5, 5, 5
Stitch Count (61, 64, 68, 72, 77)
NOTE: Randomly increase 1 stitch for X Small, XLarge, as you need an end stitch count that is an even number of stitches
Rounds: (5, 5, 6, 6, 6) sc in joining st and in each st around, join in beg. sc, ch 3
Stitch Count (62, 64, 68, 72, 78)
Round: (6, 6, 7, 7, 7) Cross Stitch Round: ch 3 represents 1 dc, cross in front of ch 3 and dc in last st of prev. round; 1st cross stitch made. Continue to cross stitch around, join w/slp st to third ch of beg. ch 3; ch 1.
Stitch Count (62, 64, 68, 72, 78)
Round: (7, 7, 8, 8, 8) sc in joining st and in each st around, join in beg. sc, end off and weave in all ends.
Repeat Sleeve Instructions one more time for the second sleeve.
Edging
Color on the edging is simple if you have numbered your color balls. I chose my favorite color and executed a SC stitch around the whole edge, then jumped the colors so that the last round of the edge was the last color. There are 4 rounds of edging.
Round 1: Attach the yarn in the right front bottom corner. (make sure the right side of the sweater is facing you. Proceed to sc up the edge, executing three stitches at the corner at the top of the yoke, right before the neck edge. Proceed to sc around the neck edge, skipping stitches or crocheting 2 stitches together at the “V” to round out the neck edge. Sc all around the neck edge, executing 3 sc st’s at the corner of the yoke, then proceed to crochet down the opposite side of the yoke and bodice, ch 1 and turn.
Round 2: hdc in each sc up the front of the bodice and yoke, 3 sc st’s at the corner, proceed to sc around the neck, 3 sc st’s at the opposite corner, hdc down the yoke and bodice, ch 2 turn
Round 3: Cross stitch up the front of the yoke and bodice. When you get to that corner, execute 3 sc st’s, sc around the neckline, 3 sc st’s at the corner, Cross stitch down the front, making sure to land by executing one lonely dc at the last st. ch1 and turn.
Round 4: sc in each st up the front of the bodice, 3 sc at the corner, sc around the neckline, sc down the front of the yoke and bodice. End off and weave in all end.
Block using your favorite method. I like to use a steam block method, it’s quick and easy.
This pattern is protected by copyright© Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet 2020. Do not sell, alter or redistribute this pattern in any way or form. You have my permission to sell your finished product, but you are responsible for the finished product.