How adorable is this Crochet Turkey Baby Sweater? Little ones will look so cute toddling around with a Turkey Tail bouncing in the back and an astonished Turkey Face on the hood. The free pattern below includes 12 mo, 18-24 mo & 2t. The adfree pdf crochet pattern, that includes all tutorials, can be purchased at Etsy or Ravelry
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The Turkey Face is positioned on the hood so that when it drapes to the back the Turkey looks as if he is frightened and is running away from the farmer that is thinking of turkey dinner, on Thanksgiving Day!
Here are a couple of reviews that were given, about the Turkey tail sweater.
***dr1b1 on etsy says, “Such a cute and fun pattern! Easy to follow and working up quickly. Can’t wait to finish it for my little one.”***
***JC states that “Finally finished the Turkey Tail Sweater. (12mo size) I will definitely try the 12 – 18mo sweater next time. I think the 12- Toddler size shows the stitches & tail part (shells) better. I used a 4.5mm hook for the feathers part, the feathers came out a little too big with the 5mm hook and 12 mo size. Overall it is a great pattern and totally in love with the design. Thank you Kris.”
The sizes on this Crochet Turkey Baby Sweater is 12 month; 18-24 month & 2t.
If you are experienced at crochet, it would be easy to make this sweater pullover sweater in a 3t-4t. You could also eliminate rounds at the yoke to make a 9 month sized Turkey sweater
Do you want to make that adorable skirt?
Making that cute little skirt is easy. I have a tutorial on Youtube that will show you how. Even though this tutorial is for Christmas skirts and uses flannel fabric, if you follow the steps it will show you how to make those beautiful skirts. I picked up the “Gobble till you wobble” fabric at Jo Ann’s. It is so easy to create.
Do you want to make those adorable pull tie bows?
There is a tutorial on how to make that pull tie bow that is on the waistband, and how to add a pull tie bow to hairclips.
Below is a video that will help explain the construction and how to adjust the sizes on the crochet turkey baby sweater.
Crochet Turkey Baby Sweater Crochet Pattern: 18 – 24 month Turkey Tail Sweater (12 mo and 2t info included)
NOTE: I have added notes throughout the pattern for a 12 mo. and 2t. You will need to adjust stitch counts on the yoke only.
Difficulty:
Intermediate
Yarn Weight:
(4) Worsted Weight; Approximately 375 yds. I used Hobby Lobby’s I love This Yarn.
Hook:
H/8/5.0mm
Gauge:
4” x 4”= 8 rows dc x 13 dc stitches
Special Crochet Stitches:
Shell Sequence: *sc in st indicated, shell in the nxt st indicated* repeat, then when executing the shell sequence in a previous row or round that had a shell sequence, you will *sc in the third dc of the prev shell, and shell in the prev sc.*
5dc shell: 5 dc in st’s indicated in pattern
Beg. shell: ch3 counts at dc,
4 dc in same st
half shell: 3 dc in st indicated
Beg. half shell: ch 3, counts as dc; 2 dc in same st.
hdc shell: 5 hdc st’s in st indicated in pattern
Beg. hdc shell: ch 2, counts as hdc, 4 hdc in same st.
half hdc shell: 3 hdc in same st
Beg. half hdc shell: ch 2, counts as hdc; 2 hdc in same st.
V: 2dc, ch 1, 2dc in st indicated in pattern
Cross Stitch: skip st, dc in nxt st, cross back passing hook in front of prev. dc, executing a dc in st that was skipped.
Stitch Key
slp st = Slip Stitch
ch = Chain
sc = Single Crochet
hdc = Half Double Crochet
dc = Double Crochet
fp hdc = front post hdc
bp hdc = back post hdc
Crochet Abbreviations
join w/ = join with
dec = decrease; dc two st’s together to make one stich or sc two st’s together to make one stitch.
increase = 2 dc in same st.
nxt = Next
* * = Execute what is between the stars the number of times stated;
x = Times; example Repeat 2 x or 2 times; 3 x or 3 times and so on;
in = example “in nxt st” means you will be inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch to complete stitch or sequence of stitches stated.
prev. = previous
rs = right side
ws = wrong side
(Ending and beg. ch’s do not count as a stitch, unless otherwise noted)
An ad free pdf of the Turkey Tail Sweater can be purchased @
Ravelry & Etsy
Base Chain: ch 46
Row 1:
dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across; ch 2 and turn. (44 dc)
Row 2:
Front 1: dc in beg. dc; dc in nxt 2 dc st’s; cross st; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Shoulder 1: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 4 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Back: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 10 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Shoulder 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 4 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Front 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in last 3 st’s; ch 2 and turn
(40 st’s & 4 “V” st’s)
Note: The cross stitch placed BEFORE THE PREV. “V”‘s of each round, will be executed by placing the 1st dc in the ch 1 sp, then crossing back in front of that dc, to execute a dc in the dc skipped.
The cross st placed AFTER THE PREV. “V”‘s will be executed by skipping the ch 1 and executing a dc in the nxt dc, then crossing back and executing a dc in the ch 1 sp. (Purchase an ad free pdf that includes charts to help you along on etsy or ravelry)
You will not work any stitches into the dc stitches that create the “V” st’s. All dc st’s in those “V”‘s will be skipped throughout the pattern.
Row 3:
Front 1: dc in beg. dc; dc in nxt 3 dc st’s; cross st; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Shoulder 1: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 6 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Back: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 12 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Shoulder 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 6 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Front 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in last 4 st’s; ch 2 and turn
(48 st’s & 4 “v” st’s)
Row 4:
Front 1: dc in beg. dc; dc in nxt 4 dc st’s; cross st; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Shoulder 1: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 8 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Back: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 14 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Shoulder 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 8 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Front 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in last 5 st’s; ch 2 and turn
(56 st’s & 4 “v” st’s)
Row 5:
Front 1: dc in beg. dc; dc in nxt 5 dc st’s; cross st; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Shoulder 1: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 10 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Back: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 16 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Shoulder 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 10 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Front 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in last 6 st’s; ch 2 and turn
(64 st’s & 4 “v” st’s)
Row 6:
Front 1: dc in beg. dc; dc in nxt 6 dc st’s; cross st; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Shoulder 1: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 12 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Back: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 18 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Shoulder 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 12 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in nxt st;
Front 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in last 7 st’s; ch 2 and turn
(72 st’s & 4 “v” st’s)
Row 7:
Front 1: dc in beg. dc; dc in nxt 7 dc st’s; cross st; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Shoulder 1: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 14 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V inch 1 sp of prev. V;
Back: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 20 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Shoulder 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 14 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1, V in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Front 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in last 8 st’s; ch 2 and turn
Note: Row 8 has a ch 3 at the end of the row that you will carry into the rounds that follow.
NOTE: If making 2t, add one more row before executing Row 8 and adjust your stitch count. If making 12 mo. eliminate Row 7 and proceed to Row 8 and adjust your stitch count.
Row 8:
Front 1: dc in beg. dc; dc in nxt 8 dc st’s; cross st; ch 1, dc in ch 1 sp of prev. V; underarm chain: ch 5 (ch 7 for 2t); skip all shoulder st’s; dc in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Back: ch 1; cross st; dc in nxt 22 st’s; cross stitch; ch 1; dc in ch 1 sp of prev. V; underarm chain: ch 5 (ch 7 for 2t); skip all shoulder st’s; dc in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
Front 2: ch 1; cross st; dc in last 9 st’s; ch 3 do not turn
(55 st’s)
Rows have ended, Rounds will be next.
Note 1: The Rounds 1 thru 8 will be the right side of your work.
Note 2: Carry the ch 3 that is on your hook across to the front side, to execute the first dc of Round 1. The ch 3 will be the base for the square placket.
Note 3: All Cross stitches will be placed directly in the prev. cross st through the rest of the pattern.
Row 1:
(place marker in 1st st) dc in nxt 9 st’s; cross st in prev. cross st, dc in nxt dc; ch1; dc in each underarm ch; dc in nxt dc; ch 1, cross st in prev. cross st.; dc in nxt 22 st’s; cross st in prev. cross st; ch 1, dc in nxt dc; dc in each underarm ch; dc in nxt dc; ch 1, cross st in prev. cross st, dc in remaining dc st’s and in each ch of prev. ch 3 (65 st’s)
Row 2:
dc in marked st (place marker in 1st st) dc in nxt 8 st’s; cross st in prev. cross st, ch1; dc in nxt 7 dc st’s; ch 1, cross st in prev. cross st.; dc in nxt 22st’s; cross st in prev. cross st; ch 1, dc in nxt 7 dc st’s; ch 1, cross st in prev. cross st, dc in remaining dc st’s until you reach the marked st.
NOTE: If making a 2t, add one more round, if making a 12 mo. eliminate one round before executing Round 4.
Note: Round 4 will include the start of the shell sequence. It will begin in the underarm area)
Row 4:
dc in marked st (do not place marker in 1st st) dc in nxt 8 st’s; cross st in prev. cross st, ch1; dc in nxt 2 st’s; hdc in nxt; (beg. of shell sequence begins) sc in nxt st; (place marker in sc) skp 2 st’s, shell in nxt; *skp 2 st’s, sc in nxt; skp 2 st’s; shell in nxt;* repeat around, making sure to end with a shell right before marked sc; join w/slp st to marked sc
Row 5:
beg. shell; sc in 3rd dc of prev. shell; *shell in nxt sc; sc in 3rd dc of prev shell* repeat around; join w/slp st in 3rd ch of beg. shell.
Row 6:
slp st to 3rd dc of prev. shell; ch 1 sc in same st.; shell in nxt sc; * sc in 3rd dc of prev shell; shell in nxt sc;* repeat around; join w/slp st in beg. sc
Row 7 & 8:
Repeat Round’s 5 & 6
Round 9 will end at the opposite underarm. You may want to place a marker at the opposite underarm. This will be where you start creating the “tail” portion at the back of the sweater.
Row 9:
beg. shell; sc in 3rd dc of prev. shell; *shell in nxt sc; sc in 3rd dc of prev shell* repeat across the back to the opposite underarm, ending with a shell and turn
Row 10:
slp st in nxt st; ch 1 sc in 3rd dc of prev. shell; *shell in nxt sc; sc in 3rd dc of prev. shell;* repeat across; end with sc in 3rd dc of the 1st shell of the prev. round, and Turn
Following round should be the right side of your work and the shell sequence will be executed completely around the bottom of the sweater, and will be the finishing round .
Row 11:
Beg. shell in prev. sc; *shell sequence* across the bottom of the tail, turn your work slightly and execute the shell sequence down the side of Round 9 & 10. Continue the shell sequence across the front of the sweater until you reach the “tail” portion. Proceed to crochet up the sides of round 9 and 10, making sure to end with a shell, then join w/slp st to beg. sc. End off then proceed to make the sleeves.
Sleeves Turkey Tail Sweater
Round 1:
Join yarn w/slp st at the center underarm area, ch 2; dc in the join spot, continue to dc around the armscye (armhole) until you have 30 dc st’s; join w/slp st to beg. dc
NOTE: if making a 2t sweater, add one more round before proceeding to Round 3. If making a 12 mo. sized sweater do not execute Round 2.
Round 2:
ch 2; dc in joining st and in each st around; join w/slp st to beg. dc.
Round 3:
ch 2; dc in joining st; dec; dc in each remaining st around; join w/slp st to beg. dc
Round 4:
ch 2; dc in joining st; dc in each st around, until you reach the last 2 st’s, then execute a dec; join w/slp st to beg. dc.
Round 5 & 6:
Repeat Rounds 3 & 4
Round 7:
ch 1; sc in joining st; skp 2 st’s; shell in nxt; *skp 2 st’s, sc in nxt; skp 2 st’s, shell in nxt;* 3x; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Round 8:
Beg. shell; sc in 3rd dc of prev. shell; *shell in nxt sc; sc in 3rd dc of prev. shell* 3x; join w/slp st in 3rd ch of beg. shell
Round 9:
slp st in nxt st; ch 1; sc in nxt st; shell in nxt sc; *sc in 3rd dc of prev. shell; shell in nxt sc;* 3x; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Round 10:
ch 1, sc in joining st and in each dc around; skipping all sc stitches; join w/slp st to beg. sc. (20 stitches)
Round 11:
ch 1; bp hdc in 1st sc; fp hdc in nxt sc; *bp hdc in nxt sc; fp hdc in nxt sc;* 9x; join w/slp st to beg. bp hdc
Round 12:
repeat Round 11; end off and repeat sleeve instructions for a second sleeve.
Front Placket and Hood for Turkey Tail Sweater
Row 1:
Attach yarn at lower left corner; sc up the left side; 3 sc at the corner to make the turn to crochet around the neckline; sc in nxt 13 st’s; *2 sc in nxt st; sc in nxt st;* 8x; sc in remaining neckline st’s; 3 sc at the corner; sc down the right side of the placket and turn.
Row 2:
ch 3 (ch 3 counts as dc) cross stitch up the front of the placket; 3 sc at corner; *sc in nxt st; skp 2 st’s; shell in nxt; skp 2 st’s;* repeat around the neckline; end with sc during this shell sequence; 3 sc at corner; cross st down the opposite placket and turn.
Row 3:
ch 1, *sc; hdc shell;* 3x going up the placket; 3 sc at the corner; *shell sequence around the neckline;* repeat around, beginning with a shell and ending with a shell; 3 sc at the corner; *hdc shell; sc; * down the placket; end off.
Finish the placket by overlapping the right side and left side placket at the bottom, then sew them down to the ch 3 area of Round 1.
Sew buttons in place using the hdc shell as the guide. The buttons will go directly under the shell.
Hood Continued
Row 1:
with wrong side facing you, attach yarn in 2nd sc of prev. 3 sc corner; beg. half shell in that same st; *shell sequence* repeat around neckline, ending with half shell in the 2nd sc of prev. 3 sc corner, turn.
Row 2:
ch 1, sc in 1st st; *shell sequence around hood* end with sc in last st and turn
Row 3:
beg. 1/2 shell; *shell sequence* repeat around neckline; end with 1/2 shell and turn
NOTE: If making a 2t sweater, add one more row and eliminate one row if making a 12 mo.
Row 4 – 12:
Repeat Row 2 & 3 consecutively. The repeat will end on Row 2. Turn the hood, placing right sides together, use a yarn needle sew the top of the hood together. Match the edges evenly, start sewing at the front of the hood. My preferred method is to leave 3 to 4 inches unsewn, then box pleat the fabric and finish sewing it closed. I prefer this look, so that there isn’t such a pointy peak.
Hood Edging (This edging will roll back to frame the face)
Row 1:
With right side facing you, attach yarn w/sc at the base of the hood. Skip a little space; hdc shell, then begin *shell sequence* repeat around the face of the hood, executing a hdc shell in the last shell of the sequence; end with sc at the exact opposite spot on the hoods & turn
Row 2:
1/2 hdc shell; continue in shell sequence around the face of the hood, ending with 1/2 hdc shell. Turn
Row 3:
ch 1, sc in 1st st; *shell sequence* repeat around the face of the hood, ending with a sc in the 3rd ch of prev beg hdc shell. End off.
You will find the Turkey Tail Applique here.
You will find the Turkey Face here.
RAVELRY: www.turkey-tail-sweater
ETSY: www.turkey/tail/sweater
Don’t forget. There is a tutorial on Youtube to help you make that adorable skirt and I picked up the fabric at JoAnns Fabrics.
Also, there is a tutorial on how to make those adorable pull tie bows. You can add one to the waistband of the skirt, or put them on hairclips.
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This pattern is protected by copyright© Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet 2020 Do not sell, alter or redistribute this pattern in any way or form. You have my permission to sell your finished product, but you are responsible for the finished product.