This over sized sweater is fun to wear. It’s so easy to crochet. You will hold 2 strands of worsted weight yarn, and will be constructing the sweater from the top down. No sewing is needed as the sleeves are crocheted on to the sweater.
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A Live Chat With The Designer About How To Create The Over sized Sweater.
Oversized Sweater Size Large
Designer Notes For The Oversized Sweater:
- Crocheting the Oversized Sweater is almost mistake proof. It won’t matter if you have two sc st’s beside one another or two dc’s beside each other, as they will not show in the fabric of the sweater. Number counts for the bodice and sleeves are not super essential. It is important not to skip st’s unless the pattern instructs you to. The only time you will be skipping stitches is right before the ribbing at the bottom of the sweater and the cuffs on the sleeves.
- Since you are holding two strands of yarn and the sweater is designed to be oversized, you can easily incorporate a sport weight or (3) yarn in the last two or three stripes of the bodice and the sleeves.
- Color is very important to this sweater design, and since you are holding 2 strands of yarn, you can use one solid contrasting color throughout the entire sweater that will give it a marled look. You don’t have to stay with that exact main color through the entire pattern. You can switch to a different MC (main color) at each stripe, or every other stripe for a different marled look.
- The color palette I used to make the Oversized sweater was pastel blues and greens, with pops of color. I think this would be lovely in neutral tones of gray, black and tan. Dark muted Christmas colors with a little bit of sparkle would be lovely. A super bright primary color palette would create a fun sweater. Refer to a color wheel for inspiration when choosing colors. Canva has an amazing color wheel assistant.
- The stitch pattern is a simple 2 round repeat (“Pattern” Charts are at the end of the stitch guide). You will repeat the two rounds throughout the yoke, bodice and sleeves [1st repeat- ch 1, sc in joining st, dc in nxt; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat around; join w/slp st to beg. sc.] [2nd repeat of “2 round repeat”- ch 1, sc in joining st; sc in nxt st and in each st around; join w/slp st to beg. sc]
- Important Note: After finishing the underarm chain round, the 1st round of the “bodice” may begin on the 1st repeat or the 2nd repeat round, See Designer Note #5. See the table of contents for a clickable link to the “yoke” “Underarm Chain Round”
- The sweater is designed to be long enough to completely cover the hips and cup in, by skipping stitches right before the ribbing. The bottom of the sweater should land at the upper thigh area in a very loose fashion. Keep this design feature in mind and refer to the notes within the pattern, about how many stitches to skip before the ribbing.
- This sweater is very roomy. If you would like a closer fit, move down one size in the pattern. I do not recommend going down a hook size, as this could cause a very dense fabric.
- You will find “Sizing Adjustment Tips (refer to table of contents)” as you may have a short torso, shallow shoulders or other areas that you would like to make an adjustment. What a blessing it is to create a handmade item that can be customized to fit you or your loved ones.
Yarn Used:
This is a scrap busting design and most of the colors I used did not have a label, except for the red heart stripes in retro. I used 2 skeins to achieve the color placement I wanted.
MC = Main Color = White 1500 yds
C1 = Color 1 = Light Mint Green 250 yds
C2 = Color 2 = Mint Green 300 yds
C3 = Color 3 = Red Heart Retro Stripes I used 2 skeins to get the color placement I wanted.
C4 = Color 4 = Turquoise 320 yds
C5 = Color 5 = Lime Green 300 yds
Gauge:
4”h x 4”w = 9 rounds h x 9 st’s across in the “Pattern”. Gauge is not super important in this design as the fit is “VERY” loose.
Hook:
L-11 8.00mm
Stitch Guide:
Front = Front portion of the yoke
shldr 1 & shldr 2 = shoulder 1 and shoulder 2
Back = Back portion of the yoke
“Pattern” = You will find charts at the end of the stitch guide. [1st repeat – ch 1, sc in joining st, *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat around; join w/slp st to beg. sc.] [2nd repeat– ch 1, sc in joining st; sc in nxt st and in each st around; join w/slp st to beg. sc]
MC = Main Color = White
C1 = Color 1 = Light Mint Green
C2 = Color 2 = Mint Green
C3 = Color 3 = Red Heart Retro Stripes
C4 = Color 4 = Turquoise
C5 = Color 5 = Lime Green
V = dc, ch 1, dc in stitch indicated in the pattern
ch = Chain
sc = Single Crochet
dc = Double Crochet
fp hdc = Front Post Half Double Crochet
bp hdc = Back Post Half Double Crochet
decrease/dec = crochet two stitches together to make one stitch
join w/ = join with
slp st = Slip Stitch
skp = Skip
sp. = Space
nxt = Next
prev. = previous
st./st’s = stitch or stitches
beg. = beginning
* * = Complete sequence between the stars, the number of times stated;
x = Times; example Repeat 2 x or 2 times; 3 x or 3 times and so on;
in = example “in nxt st” means you will be inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch to complete stitch or sequence of stitches stated
Charts for the 1st repeat and the 2nd repeat of the “Pattern”.
Size:
Large
Bust
38”
Size Adjustment Tips
1. If you have shallow shoulders eliminate 2 chains from the base chain, according to your size, and proceed to eliminate 1 stitch at each shoulder section. Do the exact opposite if you have full shoulders. Remember to add or subtract the extra stitches to the end stitch count.
2. If you have a full bust, add 2-4 stitches to the base chain, adding 2-4 stitches to the stitch count at front section. Do the exact opposite if you have a smaller bust line. Remember to add or subtract the extra stitches to the end stitch count.
3. If you have a full back add 2-4 stitches to the base chain. Add those chains to the back section. Remember to add or subtract the extra stitches to the end stitch count.
4. If you have a short torso, eliminate a round or two from each color run, that is used in the bodice. See Designer Notes. There are 6 color’s in total, but only 5 colors used for the torso and sleeves. Eliminating 5 rounds equals approx. 3″.
5. If your torso is longer you can add a round or two from each color, that is used in the bodice. See Designer Notes. Adding 5 rounds will add approx. 3″.
Oversized Sweater Yoke
Make Base Chain or Foundation DC
Holding 2 strands of yarn using Color 1 and MC chain 64 and join in a ring, making sure not to twist.
beg. ch’s do not count as stitch now or throughout the rest of the pattern, unless otherwise specified
Round 1:
ch 2, dc in joining st and in each st around; join w/slp st to beg. dc
Stitch Count (64)
Round 2 & 3:
ch 1, bp hdc in joining st, fp hdc in nxt st; *bp hdc in nxt st, fp hdc in nxt st;* repeat around, join w/slp st to beg. bp hdc
Stitch Count (64)
Round 4:
back: ch 2, V in joining st; dc in nxt st (18x)
shldr 1: V in nxt st; dc in nxt st (12x)
front: V in nxt st; dc in nxt st (18x)
shldr 2: V in nxt st; dc in nxt st (12x); join w/slp st to 1st dc of beg. V
Stitch Count (60 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 5:
ch 2, dc in joining st,
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. dc
Stitch Count (68 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 6:
ch 1, sc in joining st & nxt st,
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across, stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st * repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Stitch Count (76 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 7:
drop C1 and pull up C2 at the end of this round.
ch 1, sc in joining st; dc in nxt st, sc in nxt st,
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt sr, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Stitch Count (84 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 8:
ch 1, sc in joining st & nxt 4 st’s,
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across, stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc Stitch Count (92 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 9:
ch 1, sc in joining st; *dc in nxt st, sc in nxt st* repeat 2x
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Stitch Count ( 100 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 10:
ch 1, sc in joining st & nxt 5 st’s,
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across, stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Stitch Count (108 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 11:
ch 1, sc in joining st; *dc in nxt st, sc in nxt st* repeat 3x
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Stitch Count (116 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 12:
ch 1, sc in joining st & nxt 7 st’s,
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across, stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Stitch Count (124 st’s & 4 V’s)
Round 13: End off & drop down to the Underarm Chain at the end of this round.
ch 1, sc in joining st; *dc in nxt st, sc in nxt st* repeat 4x
back: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 1: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch 1 sp of prev. V;
front: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across stopping at the ch1 sp of prev. V;
shldr 2: V in ch 1 sp of prev. V; *sc in nxt st, dc in nxt st* repeat across; join w/slp st to beg. sc; End Off
Stitch Count (132 st’s & 4 V’s)
Yoke Measurements
Underarm to underarm across the front and back 22″
Underarm to underarm over the shoulder 19″
Center Front to bottom of yoke 8″
Underarm Chain Round
Round 14: You will be executing “2nd Repeat” of the “Pattern”
With the right side of the yoke facing you, attach the yarn with a sc in the ch 1 sp of the “V” at the back right corner.
*sc in nxt st* repeat across the back; sc in ch 1 sp of prev. V;
underarm chain: ch 14x; skp all shoulder st’s; sc in the ch 1 sp of nxt V;
Underarm Chain measurement. Please add more chains if needed.
6.5″
front: *sc in nxt st* repeat across the front, sc in the ch 1 sp of nxt V;
underarm chain: ch 14x; skp all shoulder st’s; join w/slp st to beg. sc
Bodice – Oversized Sweater:
Round: 15
Continue in “Pattern” around the bodice, placing a st in each st of the underarm chain’s.
Measurement check: Underarm to underarm across the front with sweater laying flat is 28″
Note: This sweater is very oversized. If you are off an inch or two in the negative and you would like it to be larger, rip back to the underarm chain and add one or two chains. If the sweater is going to be too large, I suggest ripping back to the underarm chain and taking out as many chains as you think is necessary.
Rounds: 16-17
Continue in “Pattern” around the bodice, dropping C2 and pulling up C3 (red heart retro stripes. This is a good place to add a variegated yarn) at the last pull through of the Round.
Rounds: 18-28
Continue in “Pattern” around the bodice, dropping C3 and pulling up C4 at the last pull through of Round.
Rounds: 29-39
Continue in “Pattern” around the bodice, dropping C4 and pulling up C5 at the last pull through of Round.
Rounds: 29-39
Continue in “Pattern” around the bodice, dropping C5 and pulling up C3 (red heart retro stripes) at the last pull through of Round.
Rounds: 40-42
Continue in “Pattern” around the bodice, joining w/slp st to beg st, ch 1
Place 4, 6, or 8 markers, evenly spaced around the circumference of the last round. The markers will indicate where to skp a stitch in the next round. This helps the sweater to cup in toward your legs. I wear skirts only, so I only skipped 4 stitches. If you wear slacks or leggings you may want it to cup in more by skipping 6-8 stitches. The choice is totally yours to make.
Rounds: 43
ch 1, sc in joining st* sc in nxt st around until you reach a marker, then remove the marker and skp that st.* joining w/slp st to beg st.
Ribbing rounds will follow. Stitch count “IS” important during the execution of the ribbing. Make sure you have an EVEN number of stitches. You can tear out a small portion of the last round and add that extra stitch or skip an extra stitch, if needed.
Rounds: 44-46
ch 2, bp hdc in joining st, fp hdc in nxt st; *bp hdc in nxt st, fp hdc in nxt st;* repeat around, join w/slp st to beg. bp hdc; End off.
Measurement: Length of the sweater from the center front to the bottom.
28″
How To Make A Standing DC:
Sleeves of Oversized Sweater:
Round numbers will start over.
Round: 1
Holding 2 strands of yarn, MC and C2; attach yarn at the center underarm with a Standing dc or any other method you prefer. Proceed to dc around the armscye or armhole, placing a stitch in each st around and one or two stitches at the corners of the armhole where the V stitch is.
Stitch count isn’t important here, as along as you place a dc in each st around and a stitch or two at the corners as instructed above.
Rounds: 2-5
Important NOTE: Throughout the rest of the sleeve execution, decrease one st at the beginning or end of each sc round (“repeat 2” of the “Pattern”)
Continue in “Pattern” around the sleeve, dropping C2 and pulling up C3 (red heart retro stripes) at the last pull through of the Round.
Rounds: 6-14
Continue in “Pattern” around the sleeve, dropping C3 and pulling up C4 (turquoise) at the last pull through of the Round.
Rounds: 15-22
Continue in “Pattern” around the sleeve, dropping C4 and pulling up C5 (lime green) at the last pull through of the Round.
Rounds: 23-32
Continue in “Pattern” around the sleeve, dropping C5 and pulling up C3 (red heart retro stripes) at the last pull through of the Round. Discontinue decreases from here throughout the execution of the sleeves.
Rounds: 33-41
Continue in “Pattern” around the sleeve. (color changes aren’t necessary in this sequence)
Round: 42
Evenly space 24 sc stitches around the sleeve. Skipping what stitches are necessary to evenly space the stitches around the sleeve opening. This is the base for the ribbed cuff. This is intended to be tight around the wrist. If it’s too tight add a multiple of two stitches. If it is too loose, decrease a multiple of two stitches.
Ribbing Rounds (Cuff)
Round: 43-45
ch 1, bp hdc in joining st, fp hdc in nxt st; *bp hdc in nxt st, fp hdc in nxt st;* repeat around, join w/slp st to beg. bp hdc.
End off, weave in all ends and repeat sleeve instruction to make the second sleeve on your Oversized Sweater.
Measurement: Sleeve Length from underarm to cuff. 23,5″
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Copyright Statement
This pattern is protected by copyright© Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet 2021. Do not sell, alter or redistribute this pattern in any way or form. You have my permission to sell your finished product, but you are responsible for the finished product. No Mass Production.