Crochet Plaid Boot Socks With Flannel Pads

Cozy Flannel Padded Plaid Boot Socks
Keeping my toes warm has been a lifelong quest of mine, and for many others. I love designing new socks, and these plaid boot socks are easy and so cute. I am posting the Ladies Large Plaid Boot socks right here for FREE! If you would like to purchase the pattern that includes all sizes and the tutorial to add the flannel pads, please click here.

I love to add tutorials to my patterns, and the complete pattern has all sizes.

I have added the tutorial on how to add Flannel Pads to your slippers and socks. It’s easy, you just need a little bit of flannel and sewing fleece.
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You can purchase the pattern that includes all sizes and complete array of photos HERE
Keep scrolling to find the free pattern!

If you or a loved one are going on a ski trip, wouldn’t it be lovely to sit in front of the fire, sipping hot chocolate, with your feet propped up while wearing these adorable slipper socks. What a lovely scene.

Free Crochet Pattern for the Plaid Boot Socks With Flannel Pads

Ladies Large (9-12 shoe size) Plaid Slipper Boot Socks
NOTES:
1. Beginning chains do not count as a stitch.
2. You may add length or shorten the slipper sock at rounds 13-17 if desired.
4. This design is intended to be a bit on the chunky side and was created to be used as boot socks in loose fitting boots or rain boots.
5. If making a solid colored slipper sock, please ignore color change instructions.

Round 1: Starting at the toe using CC 1; CH 7; 2 SC in 2nd chain from hook; (Place marker in 1st st); SC in nxt st 4x; 3 SC in last st, (Place Marker in 2nd st of the three you just executed) (9 st down the first side) continue on to the opposite side; SC in nxt st 5x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC; (14 SC)

Round 2: CH 1; 2 SC in marked or joining st (Place Marker in 1st st); SC in nxt st 6x; 3 SC in marked st; (Place Marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 7x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC; (18 SC)

Round 3: CH 1; 3 SC in marked or joining st (Place Marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 8x; 3 SC in marked st; (Place marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 8x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC; (22 SC)

Round 4: CH 1; SC in 1st st or joining st; 3 SC in marked st; (Place Marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 10x; 3 SC in marked st; (Place marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 9x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC; (26 SC)

Round 5: CH 1; SC in 1st st or joining st; SC in nxt st; 3 SC in marked st; (Place Marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 12x; 3 SC in marked st; (Place marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 10x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC;
(30 SC)

No need to place markers in the following Round. Color change will be executed at the end of round
Round 6: CH 1; SC in 1st st or joining st; SC in nxt st 2x; 3 SC in marked or joining st; SC in nxt st 14x; 3 SC in marked st; SC in nxt st 11x; Drop and End off CC 1 and pull up MC at last pull through of last SC of this round; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC; (34 SC)

5″ Note: your toe will be dome shaped

Following rounds will be circular without joining until otherwise noted. Make sure to place a marker in the first stitch of each round until you get to the leg opening.
Round 7: CH 1; HDC in joining st (Place marker in 1st st) and in each stitch around; Do not join
(34 HDC)

Round 8 – 10: HDC in marked st, and in each st around. (34 HDC) Make sure to move and place marker in 1st st of each round until you reach the leg opening.

Round 11: HDC in marked st; HDC DEC; HDC in nxt st 24x; HDC DEC; HDC in nxt st 2x; HDC DEC; HDC in last st; (31 HDC)

Round 12: HDC in marked st; HDC in nxt st; HDC DEC; HDC in nxt st 23x; HDC DEC; HDC in last 2 st’s; (29 HDC)

Round 13-17: HDC in marked st and in each st around (29 HDC)

Leg opening instructions follow. No need for markers throughout the rest of the pattern.
Round 18: HDC in marked st; HDC in nxt st 18x; CH 1 turn

Round 19: HDC in nxt st 23x; CH 1 turn; leave remaining st’s unworked
6 ½”
(Picture is an example of how to measure and does not represent this size)

Following instructions will be considered “Rows” during the execution of the heel.
Row: 20-21: HDC in nxt st 21x; at end of Row 24; CH 1 and turn (23 HDC)

Note: SC stitches will be used throughout the rest of the heel, Turn and CH 1 at end of each row.
Row 22-27; SC in each st across, Turn and CH 1; (23 SC)

Row 28: SC in nxt st 6x; (SC DEC: SC in nxt st) 4x; SC in nxt st 5x; Turn CH 1; (19 SC)

Row 29; SC in each st across, Turn CH 1; (19 SC)

Row 30: SC in nxt st 6x; SC DEC 4x; SC in nxt st 5x; Turn CH 1; (15 SC)

Row 31: SC in each st across; Turn CH 1; (15 SC)

Row 32: SC in nxt st 4x; SC DEC: SLP ST in nxt st 2x; SC DEC; SC in nxt st 5x; Fasten off leave a long tail to sew heel closed (13 st)
10”- 10 ½”
(Pic 1 is an example of how to measure and does not represent this size)

Sew heel closed
Take a time out here and follow instructions on how to trace the slipper bottom, so that you can add flannel pads. Drop to the end of the pattern to find the Flannel Pad Tutorial.
Round 33: Right side facing you, (left of center) attach CC1 one stitch away from center heel, CH 1, SC 36x around the opening; pull up CC2 on last pull through of last SC; join w/ SLP ST to beg. SC. (36 SC)

Plaid Cuff
When dropping a yarn color, crochet over the yarn as you carry it. The yarn strand will be hidden in the stitching, and will be in the proper place, ready for you to pick up for the next color change.

Round 34: CH 2; DC in nxt st 3x, Drop CC2 and pull up CC1 on last pull through of 3rd DC;
*DC in nxt st 3x, Drop CC1 and pull up CC2 on last pull through of 3rd DC; DC in nxt st 3x, Drop CC2 and pull up CC1 on last pull through of 3rd DC;*5x; DC in last 3 stitches, Drop CC1 and pull up CC2 on last pull through of last DC; join w/ SLP ST to beg. DC. Turn (36 DC)

Round 35: CH 2; DC in joining st, DC in nxt st 2x, Drop CC2 and pull up CC3 on last pull through of 3rd DC; *DC in nxt st 3x, Drop CC3 and pull up CC2 on last pull through of 3rd DC; DC in nxt st 3x, Drop CC2 and pull up CC3 on last pull through of 3rd DC;*5x; HDC in last 3 stitches; Drop CC3 and pull up CC2 on last pull through of last DC; join w/ SLP ST to beg. DC. Turn (36 DC)

Round 36: Repeat Rounds 34-35,: Consecutively (36 DC)

Round 37: Repeat Round 34: at the end of the round 34, Drop CC1 and pull up MC on last pull through of last DC; join w/ SLP ST to beg. DC. Do not turn. (36 DC)

Ribbed Cuff

Round 38: CH 1; HDC in joining st, and in each st around; join w/ SLP ST to beg. HDC. (36 HDC)

Round 39-41: CH 1, FP HDC in joining ST; BP HDC in nxt st; *FP HDC in nxt st; BP HDC in nxt st;* 17x; join w/ SLP ST to beg. HDC. End Off at the end of Round: 41 (18 FP HDC & 18 BP HDC) Weave in and secure all ends.
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These plaid boot slipper socks are wonderful to give as a Christmas Gift.

Loved ones are always happy to receive a pair of snuggly slippers, and when they are handmade from you, it will mean so much more to them. If you like these slipper socks, you may like the Lumber Jack Boot Socks. They are pretty fun to crochet!

I would love it if you shared photos of the Plaid Boot slipper socks that you make. My Crochet and Crafting Group is a great place to share and chat with me on the items you create using Krissy’s Patterns. Click on the link below and ask to join.

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This pattern is protected by copyright Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet©2018. Do not sell, alter or redistribute this pattern in any way or form. You have my permission to sell your finished product, but you are responsible for the finished product. 

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Happy Crafting and God Bless,