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Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet

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You are here: Home / Crochet Patterns / Putting Wire In A Floppy Brim Of A Crochet Sun Hat

Putting Wire In A Floppy Brim Of A Crochet Sun Hat

Lets find out how it goes putting Wire in a floppy brim of a crochet sun hat. I was sitting on my porch swing crocheting a lacey sun hat with a floppy brim, then I remembered I wanted to put wire in that floppy brim. I was excited to do that but I didn’t want to leave my spot on the swing.

I took a quick photo of the hat, and then ran to get the wire I had purchased, grabbed my little tripod and told myself it was going to be for a short or reel.
The Sun Hat is sitting on the porch swing. You can see the mesh crown with the lace sides to the hat, then the very wide sun hat brim.

Well I was mistaken. The recording is going to be too long. The video turned into me sharing with you “MY FAIL” in doing this without good preparation.

What Went Right

First lets’ talk about the positive things. The hat turned out great! I think it’s beautiful! I love the design…I love the potential of lot’s of airflow.
A second view of the sun hat with a wide lace brim sitting on my porch swing.

I adore the lacey brim…if the wire eventually turns out good, I can imagine stitches dripping off the structured edge…just because I think it will be beautiful to look at, and reminiscent of women trying to hide their face just a bit. A little vintage touch.

Sign up for my newsletter to watch the progress of this Lacey Sun Hat with A Floppy Brim.

Another good thing is that it is made with easy stitches and the pattern has a flow that is easy to follow. I separated a few rounds into sentences, or added spaces so that it would be easier to keep your place.

What Went Wrong

Ok…here are the problems as I see it.

I Added the Wire Too Soon

I should have finished the sc stitches around the brim before adding the wire and then I should’ve added a second set of sc stitches to encase the wire.
The brim with the wire on the edge. It isn't hanging right.

The Picture Hanging Wire Was Difficult to Work With

I used Picture Hanging wire that can be found at Lowe’s or Home Depot. It had been recommended by someone online, I can’t remember who, and I wanted to see if it would work. I will share more comments about whether this worked or not.
Picture Hanging wire that is still in the package.

I think the picture hanging wire is a fail, because it is braided, and the ends of it are like a cockle bur and catch the yarn…I encountered a few tangled up spots.

The wire was still too springy, like a slinky…I tried to shape it and it was difficult.
Trying to shape the wire as it is very coiled.

Comparing Picture Hanging Wire and Millinery Wire

I am going to try working with the picture hanging wire one more time. Lord willing I will post and update here in a day or two. I found it to be very easy to cut with Needle Nose Pliers which was a bonus.
Cutting the wire with needle nose pliers.

The picture hanging wire I used is considered #3 gauge in standard braided picture wire…or a 20-gauge standard steel/copper hobby wire, but it is braided…so it’s really hard to classify it. It was very easy to twist together.

Twisting the wire together.

Most millinery wire is standard 19 – 20 gauge but it isn’t braided. I may order some in a few days and try using it…maybe with a different design.

My Plan for the Next Attempt

A mistake that I made is I placed too many single crochet stitches around the wire in the last round. So it’s time for a “Do-Over”.

I will redo the brim and add sc stitches to the ch4 arches first.

Then add a second round of sc stitches while adding the wire again.

Here’s the Lacey Sun Hat Crochet Pattern

Here is the crochet pattern for the Sun Hat With A Floppy Brim.
Lacey Brimmed Sun Hat with the wire added to the floppy brim.

Lacey Sun Hat Crochet Pattern

Yarn: Yarn Bee Cotton DK (235 yd in a ball) I believe this yarn is too heavy for this project as it is fluffy cotton, think a warm hat?

Supplies: 

  • 1. A small amount of duct tape in the color of the yarn you are using.
  • 2.Picture hanging wire I used was #3 gauge in standard braided picture wire…or a 20-gauge standard steel/copper hobby wire.
  • 3. Wire snips or needle nosed pliers that have the snip at the base.
  • 4. Yarn needle 
  • 5. Little tag from Hobby Lobby and sewing needle and thread.

Hook: 

G 6/4.00MM

GAUGE = ch 25;
Row 1:sc in 2nd chain and in each ch across ch1 & turn(24 sc)
Row 2: sc in each st across, ch1 & turn (repeat this row until you reach 5”)

Stitch Guide 

join w/ = join with 

slp st = Slip Stitch 

ch = Chain 

sc = Single Crochet 

dc = Double Crochet 

flo = Front Loop Only
V = Double crochet, ch1, double crochet in the st indicated in the pattern

nxt = Next 

* * = Repeat between the stars the number of times  stated; 

x = Times; example Repeat 2 x or 2 times; 3 x or 3 times  and so on;
+ = continue on to this next segment
& = continue to the next segment in parentheses

*[  ]* Repeat between the brackets the number of times stated
(   ) Complete the sequence written between, when number is present repeat as many times stated

Notes:

  • This crochet pattern is a test and will not be for sale until such time the end result of adding wire to the floppy brim becomes a success. I am not holding out hope at this point, but if I find a good solution, then I will put the pattern on the market for sale. For now the pattern will be free on my blog only. 
  • Some rounds in the pattern are written in sentence form. I find it is easier to keep your place. 
  • The first sentence will be the beginning steps. 
  • The second sentence will be the repeat sequence. 
  • The third sentence will be the ending steps of the round.

Adult Medium to XLarge (This is a very loose fitting design with a lot of ease)

CH 3 or 4 join in ring or use Magic Circle
beg ch2 does not count as a stitch

Rnd 1: ch2; work 14 dc into ring. Join  with slp st, in top of beg 1st dc. (14 dc around) 

Rnd. 2: ch 4, (this counts as 1st dc, ch1 now and  throughout the pattern) *V, ch1 in nxt  dc, (dc, ch1) in nxt dc* repeat around; join w/slp  st in 3rd ch of beg ch. (21 ch1 sp) 

Rnd. 3: Slp st into 1st ch, ch4; dc & ch1 under next ch1 sp; V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp,

*[(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 3x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) + (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) 2x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1  sp)]* 2x;

(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 3x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) join w/slp st, in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (27 ch1 sp)

(“V” in every “V”)
Rnd. 4: Slp st into 1st ch, ch4; dc & ch1 under next ch1 sp; (V & ch1) under nxt ch1 sp,

*[(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 4x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) + (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) 3x + (V + ch1 under nxt ch1 sp)]* 2x;

(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 4x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) & dc & ch1 under last ch1 sp; join w/slp st, in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (33 ch1 sp) 

(“V” in every “V”)
Rnd. 5: Slp st into 1st ch, ch4; dc & ch1 under next ch1 sp; (V & ch1) under nxt ch1 sp,

*[(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 5x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) + (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) 4x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp)]* 2x;

(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 5x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) & (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp)* 2x; join w/slp st, in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (39 ch1 sp)  

(“V” in every “V”)

Rnd. 6: Slp st into 1st ch, ch4; dc & ch1 under next ch1 sp; (V & ch1) under nxt ch1 sp,

*[(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 6x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) + (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) 5x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp)]* 2x;

(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 6x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) & (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp)* 3x; join w/slp st, in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (45 ch1 sp)

(“V” in every “V”)
Rnd. 7: Slp st into 1st ch, ch4; dc & ch1 under next ch1 sp; (V & ch1) under nxt ch1 sp,

*[(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 7x (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) + (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) 6x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1  sp)]* 2x;

(dc & ch1 under nxt  ch1 sp) 7x, (V & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) & (dc & ch1 under nxt ch1 sp) 4x; join w/slp st, in 3rd ch of beg ch4. (51 ch1 sp)

Measurement: 7.75” – 8” across

Rnd. 8: ch1 sc in same sp, ch3; *skip ch1 sp, sc under nxt  ch1 sp, ch 3* repeat around; slp st in beg sc (25 ch3  arches ) 

Rnd.9: slp st under 1st ch3, ch1; *2sc, ch2, 2sc under  arch* repeat around, slp st in beg sc (25 ch2 sp) 

Rnd.10: slp st in nxt sc, slp st under ch2, ch1, sc under ch2  sp, ch3 *sc under nxt ch2 sp, ch3* repeat around; slp st in  beg sc (25 ch3 arches ) 

Rnd. 11-23: Repeat Rnd. 9&10 consecutively 

Rnd. 24:  ch1, sc in joining st, 4sc under ch3 arch; *sc  in nxt sc, 4sc under ch3 arch* repeat around, slp st in beg  sc (125 sc)
Measurement:  Rounds 7-23 vertically = 4.5” – 5” / Crown to rnd 24 = 7.5”- 8”

(Increase every “12th” st)
Rnd. 24:  ch1, sc in flo of joining st, sc in flo of nxt 10 st’s, 2sc in flo only of nxt st; *sc in flo of nxt 11 sc st’s, 2sc in flo of nxt st* 9x; sc in flo of the last 5 st’s; join w/slp st in beg  sc (135 sc)

Rnd. 25:  ch1, sc in joining st, and in each st around; join w/slp st in beg  sc (135 sc)

(Increase every “13th” st)
Rnd. 26:  ch1, sc in joining st, sc in nxt 11 st’s, 2sc in nxt st; *sc in nxt 12 sc st’s, 2sc in nxt st* 9x; sc in last 5 st’s; join w/slp st in beg  sc (145 sc)

Rnd. 27:  ch1, sc in joining st, and in each st around; join w/slp st in beg  sc (145 sc)

(Increase every “14th” st)
Rnd. 28:  ch1, sc joining st, sc in nxt 12 st’s, 2sc in nxt st; *sc in nxt 13 sc st’s, 2sc in nxt st* 9x; sc in the last 5 st’s; join w/slp st in beg  sc (155 sc)

Rnd. 29:  ch1, sc in joining st, and in each st around; join w/slp st in beg  sc (155 sc)

(Increase every “15th” st)
Rnd. 30:  ch1, sc in joining st, sc in nxt 13 st’s, 2sc in nxt st; *sc in nxt 14 sc st’s, 2sc in nxt st* 9x; sc the last 5 st’s; join w/slp st in beg  sc (165 sc)

Rnd. 31:  ch1, sc in joining st, and in each st around; join w/slp st in beg  sc (165 sc)

(Increase every “16th” st)
Rnd. 32:  ch1, sc in joining st, sc in nxt 14 st’s, 2sc in nxt st; *sc in nxt 15 sc st’s, 2sc in nxt st* 9x; sc the last 5 st’s; join w/slp st in beg  sc (175 sc)

Rnd. 33 & 34:  ch1, sc in joining st, and in each st around; join w/slp st in beg  sc (175 sc)

Rnd. 35:  ch1, sc in joining st, ch3, skp st and sc in nxt all the way around, skipping the last two stitches when you get to the end of the round; join w/slp st in beg  sc (87 ch3)

Rnd. 36: slp st under 1st ch3, ch1; *2sc, ch2, 2sc under  arch* repeat around, join w/slp st in beg sc (87 ch2 sp)

Rnd. 37:  slp st in nxt sc, slp st under ch2, ch1, sc under ch2  sp, ch4 *sc under nxt ch2 sp, ch4* repeat around;join w/slp st in  beg sc (87 ch4 arches )

Rnd. 38: slp st under 1st ch3, ch1; *3sc, ch2, 3sc under  arch* repeat around, join w/slp st in beg sc (87 ch2 sp)

Rnd. 39:  slp st in nxt 2 sc st’s, slp st under ch2, ch1, sc under ch2  sp, ch4 *sc under nxt ch2 sp, ch4* repeat around; join w/slp st in  beg sc (87 ch4 arches ) 

Prepare the wire you will be using to crochet into the brim of your hat. Cut the piece of wire a few inches longer than the circumference of the brim of the hat.

Rnd. 40:  You will be crocheting while the wire is placed over the stitches…lay it on top of the v that is at the top of each crochet stitch, ch 1, sc in joining st, *place 6sc in under the ch4 arch, sc in nxt sc* repeat between *  * around, when there is one arch left to crochet, cut and tape the two ends together, then crochet around the wire.  

I am not putting a stitch count here, as I realized I did this all wrong. I was really concerned that the wire should be “covered” and not visible, so I placed as many stitches as I felt like I needed to cover that wire…which was a mistake.
Photo of me wearing the sun hat, one is showing me a thumbs down because it's a failed project.

 

Stay tuned to find out the results. Sign up for my newsletter…as it will keep you updated and follow me on all of the socials…they are down below.

Looking for More Crochet Patterns?

Thank you for joining me on this little design adventure! Whether this is your first visit or you’ve been crocheting along with me for years, I’m so grateful you’re here.

If you enjoy crocheting, I invite you to take a look at my other Crochet Patterns. From cozy chemo-friendly caps, stylish cloches, garments and home decor. I hope you’ll find another project to add to your crochet list!

It was good to have you on side of the mountain, I hope you will make it a point to come again soon and check back on the progress of this crochet pattern.

 

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COPYRIGHT STATEMENT This crochet pattern is protected by copyright© Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet 2026. Do not sell, alter or redistribute this tutorial or it’s photos in any way or form. You the maker are responsible for the finished product.


Safety & Care: This pattern is for crafting use only. The maker is responsible for safe material choice and finished item use. For full details, visit: krissysoverthemountaincrochet.com/krissys-otm-crochet-and-crafts-safety-care-guidelines/

Designer: Kristina L Moore / business: KrissysOverTheMountainCrochetAndCrafts
https://krissysoverthemountaincrochet.com
[email protected]

July 2026

 

 

 

 

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Hello! I am so glad you are here!

You will find easy crochet patterns for functional and beautiful crocheted items. I love sharing crafting tutorials as well as a few recipes. I live just “Over The Mountain” on a lovely, narrow country road in the Appalachian Mountains. Stay awhile, and we can talk about crochet , crafts and other things that are happening on "My Side of the Mountain".

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