How to Sew a T-Shirt Neckline – No Serger Needed

Today I want to walk you through one of the sewing techniques that often intimidates beginners: How to Sew a T-Shirt Neckline Without A Serger.

Many sewists think they must use binding or own a serger to finish a neckline, but I can tell you from many years of experience, that they aren’t needed. With just a regular sewing machine and the same knit fabric you used for your t-shirt, you can create a polished, professional-looking neckline.

Why Sewing T-Shirt Necklines Feel So Scary

Necklines can feel tricky because they’re curved and because knit fabric stretches. If the bodice isn’t handled the right way, the neckline can droop or ripple.

Adding that top stitch that catches the seam gives this a professional look and it keeps the  seam from rolling around.

You Can Add Two Lines of Tops Stitcing To Your T-Shirt Neckline

Sewing two lines of top stitching is easy. You can use a double needle and if you are confident you can just stitch it twice.

That is the technique I used on this neckline. I use a line on my presser foot as a guide. I place the previous line of stitching right at that line.

This Video Tutorial Talks About The Different T-Shirt Necklines

This “sewing pattern comparison video” also talks about how to add ribbing to the end of the sleeve. And a few other things.

 

Supplies You Will Need

• Knit fabric with good stretch – 50% stretch Madam Sews talks about stretch on her blog. (you can use the same fabric that you used to make the main body of your t-shirt.)

• Sewing machine (no serger required) A Ball Point Needle specifically needed for sewing on Knit Fabric (I use Brother cp100x Sewing Machine)

• All purpose Dual Duty Thread in a color that matches your fabric (Do not use 100% polyester thread, it will break)

• Interfacing (to stabilize shoulder seams)

• Iron & ironing board

• Pins or clips

• Scissors or rotary cutter & ruler

Step 1: Cut and Prepare the Ribbing

1. Cut 1½” wide strips of fabric on the cross grain. (Your strips will be approximately 45″ – 60″)

2. Fold each strip in half, wrong sides together, so the right side faces out.
   

3. Press with an iron to create an even crease. I steam this pretty hard and let the strip cool before moving it.

4. If you pick up and move the strip while it is hot, it can stretch and distort the fabric.
   
   

5. Set aside — it’s better to have extra strips than not enough.

Pro Tip 1 : Don’t be scared to use the same fabric as the bodice for the ribbing at the neckline. It will work with most every knit fabric.

Pro Tip 2 : The biggest key to getting a professional look to your neckline is finishing. You will not want to skip the Over Lock or Zig Zag stitching. This will stabilize the seam. After you have shaped and ironed the neckline in place the topstitching has a place to grip, and that will keep the neckline nice and neat wash after wash.

Step 2: Stabilize the Shoulder Seams

Knit fabrics can stretch out at stress points. Adding a little bit of interfacing to the shoulder seams will stabilize the neckline and the shoulder seams. 

• Cut a rectangle strip that is approx. 1/4″ shorter than the shoulder on each side, and approx 1″ in height.

• Iron the interfacing to the wrong side of the “back” shoulder seam area. Remember, don’t allow the interfacing to extend past the fabric.
  

• Reminder not to skip this step, as this little bit of interfacing will keep the seam from stretching out during wear.
  

Step 3: Sew One Shoulder Seam (This pattern will be demonstrating “Sewing in the Flat”, instead of the standard “Sewing in the Round”)

• NOTE: My apologies for the blurry photos. The video will give more clarity (I will try to replace them soon)

  With either the right or left shoulder, one shoulder only, place the front shoulder to the back shoulder piece together. Right sides together, or pretty sides facing each other.

• Sew with a ⅜” seam allowance with a longer than normal straight stitch. I’ll use approximately a 3.0 with my Brother Sewing Machine.

• Start the sewing on the interfacing, this will keep the knit fabric from going down into the feed dogs.
  
  

• Trim seam allowance to approximately 1/4″
  

• Change to an overcast presser foot if you have one. If you don’t, no worries you can still do this next step.
  
  

• Finish the shoulder seam allowance with a zigzag or overcast stitch.
  

• Please be careful when handling your cut out t-shirt and carrying your pieces to the ironing board. Handle and carry all of the pieces lightly. 

• Use your fingers give the seam a little push and pull until you “feel” that the seam is becoming flat and flush underneath. Be careful not to push and pull on the neckline or armscye. We don’t want to stretch that area out.
  

  

• Now, let’s hit this seam with a little bit of steam and press it with your iron. Leave everything on the ironing board until it is cool. If you move it when it is warm it will stretch out of shape easily.

• If you want a really clean finish, top stitch the seam that is towards the back.
  

Step 4: Attach the Neckline Ribbing To The Neckline With a Technique That Is Called “Sewing In the Flat”

This method is much easier than sewing the ribbing into a circle, then sewing it onto the neckline. Here are the steps.

1. You will be sewing with a strait stitch. I use a stitch length of 3.0 on my Brother Sewing Machine.

2. Lay the ribbing strip along the neckline, leaving about ½” past the open shoulder seam.
   
   

3. Gently stretch only the ribbing as you sew, not the neckline. Treat the t-shirt fabric “like a cloud.”
   
   

4. Stitch the ribbing in place about an inch at a time, using a 1/4″ to a 3/8″ seam allowance, smoothing as you go. Take just a few stitches at a time. 

5. Trim excess ribbing piece once you reach the opposite shoulder seam.
   

Step 5: Finish The Same With A Zig Zag Stitch or an Overlock Stitch

• Trim seam allowances if needed.

• Change your presser foot for Overlock stitching if you have one. Finish the neckline edge with a zigzag or overcast stitch. This will create stability.
  
  

• Take your piece to the ironing board and shape the neckline into place just as a t-shirt would look, but you will have one open shoulder seam.

• With the right side of the t-shirt facing you, finger press the seam using the push pull method. First shaping the scoop that is in the front of the shirt 

• Then press the seam allowance down toward the bodice (not the neckline) a few inches at a time.

  

• Shaping the neckline into place. Remember one shoulder seam will be open. This flat method makes it easier to iron and to sew the ribbing and then add the top stitching later.
  
  

• Change your presser foot back to the general sewing foot & from the right side, topstitch around the neckline using a straight stitch (3.5 mm). Stitch 1/4″ away from the seam line. I use the Center Guide on my presser foot.
  
  

• Feel with your pointer finger for the seam that is underneath. You will want to stitch into that overlocked seam. This locks it in place and gives a clean, ready-to-wear look.
  
  

Step 6: Sew the Second Shoulder Seam

• Place right sides together and carefully align the neckline edges, and pin them in place.
  
  

• Sew the shoulder seam, trim, and finish with an overcast stitch.
  
  

• Press toward the back and tack the seam down at the neckline. This will keep that little bit of ribbing edge from sticking out. Use a straight stitch to do this step.
  
  

Final Results

You now have a smooth, professional-looking neckline without the need for a serger. 🎉

This method works great for:

• T-shirts

• Knit dresses

• Children’s wear

• Any project where you want a polished neckline using only a regular sewing machine

And here’s my favorite part: once you practice a few times, you’ll be able to sew knit garments that look store-bought, all with the tools you already own.

A Personal Note

Since my mastectomy, I prefer higher necklines for comfort and coverage. This method gives me the flexibility to create the exact neckline shape I want. Whether it’s a modest scoop, crew, or something in between. Sewing your own clothes means you get to decide the fit, comfort, and style. 

Are You Ready to Try It?

I hope this tutorial encourages you to tackle knit fabrics with confidence. You don’t need a serger to sew professional-looking garments!

I would love for you to join me across my platforms for more tutorials, crochet patterns, and community fun:

• • YouTube

  • Ravelry

  • Pinterest

  • Etsy

  • INSTAGRAM

COPYRIGHT STATEMENT This sewing tutorial is protected by copyright© Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet 2026. Do not sell, alter or redistribute this tutorial or it’s photos in any way or form. You the maker are responsible for the finished product.

Safety & Care: This pattern is for crafting use only. The maker is responsible for safe material choice and finished item use. For full details, visit: krissysoverthemountaincrochet.com/krissys-otm-crochet-and-crafts-safety-care-guidelines/

Designer: Kristina L Moore / business: KrissysOverTheMountainCrochetAndCrafts
https://krissysoverthemountaincrochet.com
[email protected]
March 2026