Let me show you how easy it is to sew little girls’ Christmas skirts using these adorable flannel fat quarter bundles, I found at Wal Mart. When I saw the Christmas fat quarter bundles they just screamed at me “little girls’ skirts”! I brought four bundles home.
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I wasn’t surprised at how easy and quick they are to make, as I have been whipping up faux pleated skirts, for little girls for quite awhile now, and I want to show you how it’s done.
2 Fat quarter bundles. I used Flannel Fat Quarter Bundles found at Wal Mart (BD Patchwork – RTC Fabrics)
Sewing Machine and all of the essentials to sew.
All purpose sewing thread to match the skirt you are making.
Straight pins (optional)
Elastic -1/2″- 3/4″ wide (newborn thru 9 month) in length needed for skirt, chart is below.
Elastic – 3/4″- 1″ wide (12 month thru 5t) elastic in length needed for skirt, chart is below.
2 large safety pins (Pins will be used to work elastic through the casing)
Marking Pencil or Rotary Cutter, Mat and Clear Ruler.
Elastic Chart For Little Girls Christmas Skirts:
(1/2″- 3/4″ elastic)
3-6 month: 14.75″
6 month: 15″
9 month: 15.25″
(3/4″- 1″ elastic)
12 month: 15.5″
18 – 24 month: 16″
Here is a video tutorial that will visually walk you through the steps.
Untie both bundles and open fabric. You will have 10-18″ x 21″ rectangles. You will need two matching 18″ x 21″ rectangles to make one skirt.
Execute a zig zag or serge around the entire edge of all 10 piece’s of fabric. Then wash and dry to fabric. Flannel shrinks and you will need to preshrink this fabric.
After the fabric is washed and dried, match the prints together. You will have 5 matches.
Place them right sides facing each other. Sew along the 18″ side of each pair or match with a strait stitch using a 3/8″ seam.
Finish that edge with a zig zag stitch or serge. Iron the edge to one side. You now have 5 rectangular skirt pieces.
Using the chart below and cut the skirt pieces to the length width needed. Follow chart below.
Fabric Cutting & Size Chart For Little Girls Christmas Skirts, Using Fat Quarter Bundles.
(NOTE: You can make the Gobble Till You Wobble Skirt, that matches the Turkey Tail Sweater using these instructions)
Newborn: 8.5″ x 37″
3-6 month: 9.5″ x 38″
6-9 month: 10.5″ x 40″
12 month: 11.5″ x 41.5″
18-24 month: 12.75″ x 41.5″
2t-3t: 14″ x 41.5″
4t-5t: 16″ x 41.5″
Finish the long edge’s ( 37″, 38″, 40″ or 41.5″ sides”) with a zigzag stitch or serge.
Paying close attention to the direction of the print on each skirt piece, iron “down” a 1.25” casing for newborn thru 9 month, and 1.5″ casing for 12 month thru 5t. (the casing houses the elastic)
Next iron “up” the hem, 1.5″ for newborn thru 9 month & 1.75″ – 2″ for 12 month thru 4t-5t. (Measurements don’t have to be exact for the hem, just in the range of 1.75″ – 2″)
Ironing the casing and hem is a preparatory step. It is always easier to iron a casing and hem when the piece of garment you are working with is flat, and not in the round.
Open up the ironed edges at the edges only, and place the right sides together, matching the two unsewn short edges.
Sew them together using a strait stitch and 3/8″ seam. Finish the edge with a zig zag or serge. Iron the edge to one side, at the same time ironing the casing and hem that you opened up, back into place.
Using a strait stitch (top stitch length) sew the casing closed, leaving a 2″ opening to allow room to run the elastic through.
Next, top stitch completely around the casing at the very top, right on the fold.
Top stitch the hem in place, running that stitch right along the ½ below the zig zag or serged edge.
Top stitch a second time 3/8″ above the first round of top stitching.
Place a large safety pin at both ends of the elastic. Start feeding the elastic through the casing, using the 2″ opening. (Pic 1)
Snip the sharp corners off the elastic, on the end you are pushing through the casing. (Pic 2)
Use the safety pin to help you push the elastic through the casing. (Pic 3)
The opposite end of the elastic will start getting short, pin the elastic to the top of the casing, using the safety pin. This will keep the end of the elastic from accidentally being pulled into the casing. (Pic 4)
Now the elastic is completely through the casing.(Pic1)
Release the end that is pinned to the casing and bring both ends together. (Pic 2)
Overlap the ends approx. 1/2″, (Pic 3)
Sew the elastic ends together, using a wide zig zag with a short stitch length. I go backward and forward 2 times using this method. (Pic 4)
Finish putting the elastic into the casing, then sew the 2″ hole closed, using a top stitch.
You are almost finished! I told you it was quick! It will get quicker each time you make one of these Christmas Skirts! You will soon be able to make these cute skirts blindfolded.
Start stretching the elastic while distributing the fabric around evenly around the elastic. The two seams should be balanced and opposite each other.
LAST STEP! With a hot iron that has the steam on full blast, iron the finished skirt.
It’s easy iron faux pleats into the skirt’s if you wish. I accomplish this when the waistband is toward me and the hem is pointing away from me. Grab the waistband and pull the hem in the opposite direction.
Folds and pleats will start appearing since the skirt is so full. Fuss with the folds and pleats making them nice and neat, hand pressing them into place. I execute this step the whole width of the skirt.
After you are finished with this step it should look like a rectangle and the pleats should be neat and strait up and down.
Carefully turn the skirt over to check the back to make sure the pleats are neat and strait. There should be no flare to the sides of the skirt. Turn the skirt back to the front.
Press the skirt with the iron, steaming the dickens out of it to set those faux pleats in place. Turn the skirt over and iron the back in the same manner. YOU ARE FINISHED!
Stand back and admire the beautiful Little Girls’ Christmas Skirt you have made.
Now it’s time to embellish the skirts…add a pull tie bow or buttons to the waistband.
I love adding a pull tie bow as they are so easy to make. I like to use grosgrain ribbon, and then heat seal the edges.
Pin the bow in place (Pic 1)
Don’t lay the bow flat, it needs to be raised up to provide space underneath to allow room for the elastic to expand. (Pic 2)
Top stitch the bow edges to the waistband, right at the edge as pictured, to the waist band. (Pic 3)
Fuss with your bow putting the bow tails in place where you want them, then lift the bow enough to place a small bar tack on the bow tail, to keep it place. Execute this step on both tails (Pic 4)
Now it is time to steam press the bow to make it lay flat. This can seem a little tricky at first. Put the knot of the bow in the center, then finger press each side of the bow. They may extend over the top stitching just a little.
While holding the knot in place, put a pressing cloth over the bow, remove your finger and steam it with an iron. I love this finished look, it’s subtle but makes a huge difference in the finished look of your Christmas skirt.
Below is a list of extra supplies that I used to make the Girls Christmas Skirts.
Following supplies are not necessary.
1. Self healing Rotary Cutting Mat
2. Flat Edged Clear Ruler
3. Rotary cutter
I hope you have enjoyed your visit sewing with me on “My Side Of The Mountain”. You will find crochet patterns for matching crocheted sweaters on my blog, Krissy’s Over The Mountain Crochet, Etsy and Ravelry. I hope you will come see me on my side of the mountain soon.
This pattern is protected by copyright© Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet 2020. Do not sell, alter or redistribute this pattern in any way or form. You have my permission to sell your finished product, but you are responsible for the finished product. No Mass Production.