What cute and fun socks. Purrrr-fect Kitty Striped Socks is their name, and they are fun and easy! Have you been afraid to crochet a pair of socks? Well fear no more because the pattern is easy, and there are so many ways to make a pair that has your thumbprint on them. The free crochet pattern in 2t-3t is below if your keep scrolling. Purchase the ad free pdf, that includes all sizes at Ravelry & Etsy,
This post may contain affiliate links when clicked on I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. Thank you for supporting my small business!
I really like the striped cuff with a shell edge on the pair of socks pictured.
The cat nose and whiskers make them so whimsical. Leave them off and they become functional. The striped ribbing on the cuff seems to have a swirled effect.
Adding flannel pads to the “Purrr-fect Socks” makes them so cozy.
I was so inspired by this adorable kitty cat flannel that I had to make a second pair of socks with a “Kitty Cat Stitch” on the cuff! The nose and whiskers was next. If you are a dog lover add puppy dog flannel. It shouldn’t be hard to add a dog nose and tongue, should it?
You can also add a “Contrasting Heel” to your kitty socks.
This is written into the pattern, and is written so that you can add a Contrasting Toe also. This makes 5 options.
1. Cat Nose and Whiskers
2. Striped Rib Cuff with Shell Edging
3. Contrasting Toe
4. Contrasting Heel
5. Contrasting Toe and Heel
Kitty Socks Crochet Pattern (Toddler 2t-4t)
I used Red Heart Super Saver
Sock with contrasting toe and heel:
MC = Approx. 220 yds; CC 1, toes & heel = Approx. 90 yds; CC2 & CC3 = Approx. 50 yds) (Solid Sock: MC = Approx. 300 yds) Scraps of yarn to execute the cuffs.
Use any worsted weight yarn. Please check gauge and consider that some colors in Red Heart Super Saver and Caron Simply Soft are different in size and can throw off gauge. If you notice this, go up or down a hook size.
4” x 4”= 11 rows HDC x 14 HDC stitches
Special Stitches for Striped Cuff:Shell = 3 DC in stitch indicated
Cross Stitch= Skip st, DC in nxt St, cross back passing hook in front of prev. DC, executing a DC in st that was skipped or in the CH 2 sp, whichever is indicated.
MC = Main Color
CC 1 = Contrasting Color 1 ( heel, toe )
CC 2 = Contrasting Color 2
CC 3 = Contrasting Color 3
join w/ = join with
SLP ST = Slip Stitch
CH = Chain
SC = Single Crochet
HDC = Half Double Crochet
DC = Double Crochet
HDC DEC = Half Double Crochet Decrease
FP HDC = Front Post Half Double Crochet
nxt = Next
* * = Repeat between the stars the number of times stated;
x = Times; example Repeat 2 x or 2 times; 3 x or 3 times and so on;
in = example “in nxt st” means you will be inserting the hook under the top two loops of the next stitch to complete stitch or sequence of stitches stated.
DESIGNER NOTES For Kitty Socks:
1. Beginning chains do not count as a stitch unless otherwise stated.
2. You may add length or shorten the sock at rounds 6-12, if desired.
3. This design is a bit on the chunky side.
4. If making a solid colored slipper sock, please ignore color change instructions, until you get to the cuff.
Starting at the toe, using CC 2; CH 5; 2 sc in 2nd chain from hook; (Place marker in 1st st); sc in nxt st 2x; 3 sc in last st, (Place Marker in 2nd st of the three you just executed) (7 st down the first side) continue on to the opposite side; SC in nxt st 3x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC (marked stitch); (10 SC)
CH 1; 2 SC in marked or joining st (Place Marker in 1st st); SC in nxt st 4x; 3 SC in marked st; (Place Marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 5x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC (marked stitch); (14 SC)
CH 1; 3 SC in marked or joining st (Place Marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 6x; 3 SC in marked st; (Place marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 6x; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC; (18 SC)
No need to place markers in the following Round. A color change will be executed at the end of the round if making a Contrasting Toe
CH 1; SC in 1st st or joining st; 3 SC in nxt st (Place Marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 8x; 3 SC in marked st; (Place marker in 2nd st of 3 stitch sequence); SC in nxt st 7x; Drop and End off CC 2 and pull up MC at last pull through of last SC of this round; join w/SLP ST in 1st SC; (22 SC) 3″
Following rounds for the kitty socks will be circular without joining until otherwise noted. Make sure to place a marker in the first stitch of each round until you get to the leg opening.
CH 1; HDC in marked or joining st, and in each st around; (Place marker in 1st st); Do not join. (22 HDC)
Note: Round numbers for 4t is in red ink. Follow to Round 12 for 4t, and Follow to Round 10 only for 2t. Continue in number sequence according to size you are making throughout the rest of the pattern.
Round 6 –10, 12:
HDC in marked st and in each st around; Do not join. Make sure to move and place marker in 1st st of each round until you reach the leg opening. (22 HDC)
Leg opening instructions for the Kitty Socks follow. No need for markers throughout the rest of the pattern.
Round 11, 13:
HDC in marked st and in nxt st; CH 1 and turn; (2 st)
Round 12-13, 14-15:
HDC in nxt st 18x; leave the rest of the stitches unworked; CH 1 and turn; (13 st) 4” to 4.5”
Note: Your toe will be dome shaped.
2nd Portion of the Purrr-fect Kitty Socks CAL
Following instructions will be considered “Rows” during the execution of the heel.
Row 14, 16:
HDC in each st across; CH 1 and turn; (18 HDC)
Note: SC stitches will be used throughout the rest of the heel, Turn and CH 1 at end of each row.
Row 15-17, 17-19:
SC in each st across, Turn and CH 1 (18 SC)
Row 18, 20:
SC in nxt st 5x; (SC DEC; SC in nxt st) 3x; SC in nxt st 4x; Turn and CH 1 (15 SC)
Row 19, 21;
SC in each st across, Turn and CH 1 (15 SC)
Row 20 , 22:
SC in nxt st 5x; SC DEC 3x; SC in nxt st 4x; Turn and CH 1 (12SC)
Row 21, 23:
SC in each st across; Turn and CH 1 (12 SC)
Row 22, 24:
SC in nxt st 3x; SC DEC: SLP ST in nxt st 2x; SC DEC; SC in nxt st 3x; fasten off leave a long tail to sew heel closed (10 st) 5 ½” – 6”
Sew the back of the heel closed
Take a time out here and follow instructions at Step 2 on the Flannel Pad Tutorial that tells you how to trace the slipper bottom, so that you can make a pattern to add flannel pads.
3rd portion of the Purrr-fect Socks CAL
Round 23, 25:
Right side facing you, (left of center) w/MC join yarn w/slp st, one stitch away from center heel, CH 1, SC 30x around the opening; End off MC; pull up CC1 on last pull through of last SC; join w/ SLP ST to beg. SC. (30 SC)
Round 24, 26:
CH 1, (Does not count as stitch) FP HDC in 1st and joining stitch, Cross Stitch; *FP HDC in nxt; Cross Stitch* Repeat around; Drop CC1, join w/SLP ST to beg. FP HDC using CC2
(10 Cross St’s & 10 FP HDC)
Round 25, 27:
CH 1, (Does not count as stitch) FP HDC in 1st and joining stitch, Cross Stitch; *FP HDC in nxt; Cross Stitch* Repeat around; Drop CC2, join w/SLP ST to beg. FP HDC using CC1
(10 Cross St’s & 10 FP HDC)
Round 26, 28:
Repeat Round 24, 26
Round 27, 29:
Repeat Round 25, 27 End Off CC2
Round 28, 30:
CH 1, (Does not count as stitch) FP HDC in 1st and joining stitch, Cross Stitch; *FP HDC in nxt; Cross Stitch* Complete around; End off CC1, join w/SLP ST to beg. FP HDC using MC
(10 Cross St’s & 10 FP HDC)
Round 29, 31:
CH 1, (Does not count as stitch) FP HDC in 1st and joining stitch, Cross Stitch; *FP HDC in nxt; Cross Stitch* Complete around; join w/SLP ST to beg. FP HDC
(10 Cross St’s & 10 FP HDC)
Round 30, 32:
CH 1, SC in FP HDC or joining st, Shell in Cross Stitch; * SC in FP HDC, Shell in Cross Stitch* Repeat around, join w/SLP ST to beg. SC. End off weave in all yarn tails (10 Shells, 10 SC)
If you would like to stay up to date on what is happening on my side of the mountain, please visit and join my FB group Krissy’s Over The Mountain Crochet and Crafts
I do have an ETSY shop right here!
You can find my other designs at my RAVELRY Shop
I would love it if you would follow me on Pinterest.
This pattern is protected by copyright Krissys Over The Mountain Crochet©2019. Do not sell, alter or redistribute this pattern in any way or form. You have my permission to sell your finished product, but you are responsible for the finished product. You may NOT use my photos to sell your product or promote your website.